In a world where pearls are often overlooked, Cora Sheibani dares to celebrate their vibrant, underrated beauty—and it’s sparking conversations.
Jewelry designer Cora Sheibani (https://wwd.com/accessories-news/jewelry/jeweler-cora-sheibani-life-color-1236712052/) isn’t just about dazzling gemstones; she’s on a mission to redefine luxury. Her latest collection, Skin Deep, flips the script by showcasing cultured pearls in ways that challenge industry norms. Think earrings that dangle with playful hues, chunky rings that command attention, and tic-tac-toe grids where pearls cozy up to square-cut diamonds. But here’s where it gets controversial: in the fine jewelry world (https://wwd.com/tag/fine-jewelry/), cultured pearls—especially colored ones—are often dismissed as less valuable. Sheibani, however, sees this as an opportunity to rebel.
Skin Deep is her love letter to the diversity of cultured pearls, sourced from various locations and boasting unique traits and colors. She boldly ignores industry prejudices, stating, ‘It’s a celebration of what makes each pearl special, regardless of how it’s perceived.’ And this is the part most people miss: pearls, unlike metals or stones, are fleeting. Their sheen fades over time, yet Sheibani finds this impermanence captivating. ‘Their fragility is what drew me in,’ she explains, ‘and it was time to honor them in a new collection.’
Sheibani draws a fascinating parallel between a pearl’s nacre—layers built up over time—and human skin, each telling a story of its journey. Her collection features Akoya, Edison, and Tahitian pearls in soft macaron tones of peach, gold, and green, alongside luminous grays and silvers. Every piece is meticulously handmade in Switzerland using ethically sourced materials. But how do pearls get their colors? It’s a mix of the oyster species, its tissue lining, and the water’s mineral composition—sometimes even enhanced with added materials. Yet, in true Sheibani fashion, she refuses to test whether the pearls’ colors are natural or treated. ‘It’s a quiet act of respect,’ she says, likening it to not prying into someone’s skincare routine. Bold move, right?
This isn’t Sheibani’s first rodeo when it comes to breaking rules. Remember her Glow collection? She featured stones that fluoresce under UV light—green, pink, yellow—stones traditionally deemed ‘not pure.’ ‘That’s exactly why I love them,’ she admits. Like any gemologist, she carries a loop and UV light on her keychain, ready to uncover hidden glows. Now, she’s blending her colorful pearls into past collections like Facets & Forms and Copper Mould, the latter inspired by her childhood pastries. Imagine rings shaped like mini copper cake molds, adorned with gemstones like green opal and lapis lazuli, now topped with pastel pearls. It’s whimsical, nostalgic, and utterly Sheibani.
But here’s the question: Are cultured pearls deserving of the same prestige as their natural counterparts, or is Sheibani’s celebration a step too far? Let’s discuss—do you think her approach elevates pearls or undermines traditional jewelry standards? Share your thoughts below!
