London Fashion Week embraces body diversity, but is the industry listening?
In a bold move, London Fashion Week has showcased a diverse range of body types, challenging the fashion industry's recent shift towards ultra-thin ideals. This comes as a breath of fresh air in an industry that has been criticized for its lack of inclusivity. But here's where it gets controversial: while emerging designers are embracing body diversity, the wider industry seems to be heading in the opposite direction.
Over the past four days, designers like Karoline Vitto, Phoebe English, and Sinead Gorey have featured models ranging from UK sizes 10 to 22, including mid-size and plus-size (or curve) models. Vitto, whose brand caters to a wide size range, made a powerful statement at her first catwalk show in two years, questioning the disappearance of curve models. She intentionally selected models to represent her brand's size diversity, a move that is rarely seen on the catwalk.
But why is this important? The fashion industry has long been accused of promoting unrealistic body standards, with a recent decline in plus-size representation on runways. Last year, plus-size models accounted for a mere 0.9% of catwalk looks in major fashion weeks. This has raised concerns among experts who fear a return to the promotion of thinness, which can have harmful effects on body image and self-esteem.
And this is the part most people miss: the impact of body diversity goes beyond the catwalk. Emerging brands, like Vitto's, are leading the way, but they face challenges. Established models come with high fees, so Vitto's models often cover their own expenses. Despite this, her show featured high-profile models like Jocelyn Corona (Fenty) and Nyakier Buong (Vogue). Vitto emphasizes the importance of representing different body proportions, a concept that is often overlooked in fashion.
Other designers are also taking unique approaches. English cast her mother and writer Aja Barber, while Yaku Stapleton showcased gymnasts, krumpers, and dancers. Gorey celebrated curves with her signature style. These designers are pushing boundaries and challenging the status quo.
However, casting director Emma Matell highlights a crucial point: change needs to come from the top. While emerging designers are making efforts, luxury fashion houses are not setting an inclusive example. Matell suggests that these big brands influence what younger designers consider 'safe' and commercially viable, perpetuating a narrow definition of luxury fashion and models.
The decline in plus-size representation is not an isolated issue. It reflects a broader cultural normalization of thinness, influenced by factors like the use of certain drugs in Hollywood. This trend has a ripple effect, impacting models of all sizes.
So, what's the solution? Vitto remains optimistic, believing that inclusivity is not a trend but a necessary shift. She highlights female-led brands like Sinéad O'Dwyer and Ester Manas as catalysts for change. Matell agrees that the industry needs to embrace diversity, but it requires a collective effort, starting with the top fashion houses.
As the fashion world grapples with these issues, one thing is clear: body diversity is not just about clothing sizes; it's about representation, self-acceptance, and challenging harmful beauty standards. The conversation has started, but will the industry listen and embrace true inclusivity?
